Skiddaw and The Arch of Anti-Twilight

Skiddaw and Derwentwater at dawn on a mid-winter's morning

The most evocative and uplifting moments I have experienced in the mountains of Britain and the Himalaya have been during the twilight hours, particularly in the pre-dawn, when one is alone, the world around is still, and the only sound to be heard is that of silence. Such was the case one very still and bitterly cold morning in early January when I found myself at Barrow Bay on the eastern shores of Derwentwater looking across a frozen lake towards Skiddaw. As is customary I had arrived in darkness, and with cold and stiff fingers had assembled my cameras with a view to capturing what I hoped would be a colourful midwinter sunrise on the snow laden slopes of Skiddaw.

Whilst waiting for dawn to arrive, a brief glance upward made me suddenly aware that I could identify the Earth’s shadow across Derwentwater’s unobstructed western horizon. The shadow’s dark blue fringe developed and blended into a magnificent pink band which illuminated not only much of the sky but also the frozen surface of Derwentwater. I had seen this phenomenon, known as the ‘Belt of Venus’ or the ‘Arch of Anti-Twilight’, many times before but never in quite such a dramatic display as on this occasion which was obviously enhanced by the contrasting and vivid white of Skiddaw’s snowy slopes.